Sri Lanka: Confusion or Mere Lip Service?

The truth of suffering, the origins of suffering, the cessation of suffering and the way to cease the suffering.  As a matter of rationality, no questions were asked about the first two noble truths.  I found in this person some enthusiasm to know how suffering can be stopped and what is the way to do it.

by Mass L. Usuf-Oct 14, 2018

( October 14, 2018, London, Sri Lanka Guardian) Each time I arrive by flight to Sri Lanka and walk through the passage towards the immigration counter, I am reminded of the words that constitute the subject of this column. To find out why is it so, you may have to keep reading.

When flying by plane, it is not uncommon for a fellow traveller to hook you up for a conversation in flight.  Generally, such conversations are triggered by tourists who are visiting Sri Lanka for the first time.  It is not surprising since anyone touring a country will naturally be filled with anxiety and curiosity.  When the person finds out that the guy sitting by the side is a Sri Lankan, one can see the happiness in the face.  In an apologetic tone, the tourist would ask several questions.  For the visitor it is a new country, different people, culture and religion in addition, to its beaches and the winding tract to the hill country.    I have had the same experience when visiting a country for the first time. Try and get some tips if I am lucky to be seated by the side of a citizen of that country.

Chitchatting

From here on, the narration ‘picturises’ in words a recent experience that would help to ponder about, what can be termed as, ‘confused practise’. Once when I was returning home from a trip abroad, the guy seated next to me in the plane started a conversation.  Later, I learnt that he was a first-time visitor. In response to a question, when it was said to him that I am a Sri Lankan, he was obviously joyous and the soft ‘grilling’ started. Confident of having established a conversational relationship, after clarifying the basic doubts, he ventured into other areas of general interest.  After all, the average flight time is under five hours to most destinations unless it is a transatlantic journey.  So, there is plenty of time for chitchatting.

The famous Kandy Esala perehera is a great seasonal tourist attraction.  Esala, is a month in the Sinhalese calendar which occurs during July and August.  One of the festivities during this period is the Kandy Perehera. Invariably, a firangi travelling to Sri Lanka to watch this annual pageant will want to know more about this event, its history and as to why it is an important religio-cultural speciality.  Explaining the significance of the perehera necessarily connects to the Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha which is reposited at the Sri Dalada Maligawa in Kandy.

Following this explanation, there arose questions about Buddha and Buddhism.  Being a Muslim, I do not possess in depth knowledge on Buddhism.  However, I did not want to disappoint our foreign guest by not answering his queries or saying that I am a Muslim.  I did my best to answer only what I knew and pleaded ignorance for that which I did not know the answer for.  Generally, the questions were basics and I was able to manage.  Speaking, though superficially, about the four noble truths which is the foundation of the Dhamma, is not too difficult.  The truth of suffering, the origins of suffering, the cessation of suffering and the way to cease the suffering.  As a matter of rationality, no questions were asked about the first two noble truths.  I found in this person some enthusiasm to know how suffering can be stopped and what is the way to do it.  Suffering is a common phenomenon in every human being and who would not like to come out of suffering.

Cessation of suffering

This discussion with the fellow traveller led me to ramble in a disorganised fashion the five precepts (pancha sila) and the eight precepts (ata sil).  I told him the route to salvation in Buddhism is to practise these basic precepts and then advance.  I highlighted the relevance of this practice in daily life and the positive effect it has in one’s mind and, consequently, in a person’s actions.  Incidentally, during this time alcohol was being served in the flight.  I declined the offer from the stewardess and this guy requested for his glass. I gently reminded him that this is one of the five precepts of Buddhism which I mentioned just now, ‘to refrain from taking intoxicants’. The guy went blank for a moment. Before long, he quipped, “okay, you refused the drink because you are a strict follower of Buddhism”.  I said, ‘yes and no’.  Looking at his face, I understood that he was not sure of my indecisive response.  I told him that I do not take intoxicants and that is the ‘yes’ and that I am not a Buddhist is the ‘no’.  His curiosity hit new heights.  “Then, if it is not too personal, what religion do you follow?”  I said, “I am a Muslim and Islam prohibits the intake of intoxicants”.  The reply settled his uncertainty.

“Vodka Sir, Whiskey …”

Thank God, the flight landed safely and once we were at the terminal, I took leave of him after wishing him good luck and a happy stay in Sri Lanka.  Walking towards the immigration, every traveller is welcomed by the large serene statue of Buddha in the sitting position.  I walked past the statue to take my place at the immigration queue.  Looking around, while waiting for my turn for the chop on my passport, I saw the fellow traveller in the other queue and waved at him.  Finished immigration formalities and just as I moved forward, I was accosted by young sales girls from the duty-free shops.  “Vodka Sir, Whiskey …we have a special offer today Sir.”

I could not believe this.  Imagine this, I have just disembarked from the plane after sermonising to the tourist on the dhamma and the path to salvation and, here I am being offered discounted liquor.  I had never felt ashamed of myself before.  I was sure that these girls will approach this tourist also with the offer of discounted liquor.  My mind went riot with the thought of the large Buddha statue welcoming the visitor and immediately after that the sale of liquor.  I quickly walked towards the carousel to collect my bags and exit the airport as fast as possible. It was embarrassing for me to face the guy again after having spoken so much about the dhamma and that Sri Lanka is the repository of the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha.

I have seen the Buddha statue in the airport many a times and, also, have been approached by these girls several times before.  Then, it never dawned upon me that there is something wrong here.  This time because I had spoken to this tourist about the dhamma and also cautioned him about intoxicants, the encounter with the girls was a revelation to me.  I walked out of the airport trying to reconcile the blatant contradiction that was displayed under the same roof within a few feet away from each other.  Is this Buddhism confused or, one of many such instances of merely paying lip service to this great teacher – Buddha?