The Sesame Treat

The iconic oil of the North entices the South

A vintage oil mill

 

Dishan Joseph-Saturday, February 27, 2021

 

Sri Lanka has a galaxy of succulent dishes within its national cooking traditions. Like any other country, each Sri Lankan province beautifully reflects its own natural regional ingredients, proportionately combined in a tasty culinary symphony to entice all of us. These mainly rural food ingredients have slowly made their way into the multi-cultural big towns influencing everyday menus. In today’s narrative, I draw your attention and taste buds to sesame oil, or nallenai as it has been known for centuries in Jaffna and other villages in the Northern Province.

Oil has been used in cooking for centuries in every culture. There are various strains of oil in the marketplace. For the housewives of the Northern Province, their primary choice has always been sesame seed oil. Those using this oil in cities outside Jaffna refer to this product as ‘gingelly oil’. During one of my adventurous media visits to Jaffna, I was keen to locate and visit an oil mill that produced this healthy oil, in the traditional method.

I was accompanied by Terry, a retired engineer, who knew these areas pretty well. We made some inquiries, and finally connected with an obliging clerk who kindly guided us to visit the remote village of Navaly. This was my first visit to this section of the Northern Province. The drive to Navaly was quite demanding, as we passed through fields cultivated with small red onions. A herd of buffalo defiantly sat on the road at one point, and we waited until they decided to give us the right of way. As we drove further we encountered vast areas of uninhabited land dotted with clusters of palmyrah trees. The heat was not very conducive for travelling but this is all part of the northern road trip. After reaching a sand road we turned into a by-lane and we were greeted with the mildly pungent aroma of sesame oil drifting in the air. A fence with dried palmyrah fronds covered the entrance to the oil mill. Some dogs began to bark heralding our sudden intrusion into this village oil mill. A robust bare-bodied man, attired in sarong greeted us.

The mill operator Thangaratnam is 54 years old. His father’s generation has been residing at this location for 120 years, operating a small oil extraction mill. His family is looked upon with a certain kind of reverence, perhaps due to sustaining this old rural tradition. His hands were covered in oil and he apologized for his inability to shake hands with us, which broke the ice. He explained, “My grandparents ran this mill for many years, later my father took over the family business. As you realize, many years ago we used the services of some sturdy bulls. The bulls worked hard and we depended on their strength to operate the oil extraction chekku. But with time and innovation we were forced to let go of the bulls. Because we cannot afford to care for them. During our school days, dried hay and fresh grass were purchased for Rs. 10 a bundle, but today it is expensive so that is an increase in our operational cost. We do not make a big profit, this business is our family legacy and of cultural significance. Besides, the bulls require much care, and need space to graze and rest.” These bulls were part of our home and we were sad to lose them.

For the past few years, enterprising Thangaratnam has turned to the power of a motor-mechanical device (somewhat similar to a small handheld tractor). This device has replaced the circular rotation of the robust bulls. The centre of the garden has a large chekku or oil extraction well, built with wood. In the past, this was built with solid granite that was chiselled patiently by hand. The wood-based container is buried firmly into the ground. Within it is the main grinding apparatus of the chekku - a thick wooden pole. This pole is connected by a fulcrum, which extends about seven feet and is bound to the mechanical-mini tractor. Once in operation, the motor unit goes around in circles causing the sesame seeds to be crushed at a steady rhythm, releasing virgin oil. This oil is blackish brown in colour and collected at the base in a plastic bucket. Thangaratnam added, “We put 20 kilogrammes of sesame seed into the well. After two hours of pressing, we obtain about 14 bottles of quality oil. We send this oil to the traders who filter it many times, and obtain the nice brown oil, though it is not limpid like some other oils. Today, a bottle of sesame oil is sold here between Rs. 800 and 900; I reckon it is more costly in Colombo.”

Sustaining this century-old tradition comes with many challenges. One of them is the hard and demanding physical operation. Though Thangaratnam is in his mid-fifties, he looks much older. He explained, “With the time and cost of my labour I do not make a big profit. I must work six days a week. People in Jaffna love to cook with sesame oil. But I do not make a lavish profit from my work. Presently I have to incur diesel costs to operate my motor.”

 

 

We walked to the back garden where he pointed to a massive log that had been felled. This log will be chiselled by hand and made into the “grinding pin”- which can then be used for a year. Previously, these objects were made with granite that lasted years, but today, there are no skilled workmen to cut and make them. Another rural tradition that has been lost. Thangaratnam adds, “Sesame oil has many health benefits - sesame oil is known to be an effective treatment for wounds and inflamed skin. It contains anti-inflammatory properties that fight bacterial infections. When someone gets a burn wound, we rub this soothing oil. As you grow old, sesame oil can assist you in avoiding osteoporosis and numerous other age-related weaknesses in the bones. If you wish to enjoy the benefits of lower blood pressure level, you should add sesame oil to your diet. It is good for frying food. Also copper is a key mineral that helps fight swelling and reduces pain associated with arthritis. In addition, the mineral also helps add strength to your bones, joints, and blood vessels.” Ancient Ayurveda physicians realized that sesame oil is filled with ingredients that are capable of providing a silky texture to your skin. The presence of fatty acids makes them an effective moisturizer for the skin.

They are also rich in vitamin E, D and B complex which reduces scars and other rashes on the skin. Sesame oil forms a protective film over the skin and is a natural sunscreen. It is applied by those who work in the fields in the intense sun. Today many shops in areas such as Pettah and Wellawatte sell sesame oil to health-conscious customers in Colombo. Over the years, sesame oil from Jaffna has become familiar in Sinhalese and Muslim kitchens, making the product a cultural bridge- in a culinary sense. Crushed sesame seeds mixed with jaggery is a healthy snack eaten by all ethnic groups in Sri Lanka.

After thanking this diligent family, we were exiting the oil mill when a senior citizen cycled into the garden. Sporting unkempt hair and a long grizzled beard, this worthy was a regular customer, who told me that sesame oil has kept him in great health. After buying a bottle, the old man cycled away. As he disappeared down the road into the outskirts of Navaly we wondered if this ancient art of oil production would fade away in the future.